Arts and Crafts Brooches. Below are some examples of Arts and Crafts brooches including a gold, seed pearl and diamond grapevine brooch by F W Lawrence.
Brooch John Paul Cooper (English, 1869–1933) English Arts and Crafts 1908
This brooch is a major work by Cooper. Created during a period when the artist relied less on chased representational imagery and more on stones, the ornament conveys a sense of refined opulence. Inspired by medieval and Celtic design, the brooch is both airy and graceful. The goldwork is decorated with finely chased leaves and tendrils and the bezel-set stones include ruby, pearl, moonstone, amethyst, and chrysoprase. It took 273 hours to produce the brooch and Lorenzo Colarosi, Cooper’s chief craftsman, was the primary fabricator. It’s possible that Cooper did the chasework.
Reference: Museum of Fine Arts Boston
An Arts & Crafts Brooch by Murrle Bennett & Co. IMPRESSED ‘MB’ MAKERS’ MARK; CIRCA 1900 the openwork rectangular design with looping entrelacs, inset with a circular paste gemstone in an amber yellow colour, and a small pearl; stamped ’15CT’ to reverse 3cm long
Sold for £ 162 inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2018
An Arts & Crafts emerald, ruby, sapphire and half-pearl brooch Composed of a polished emerald tabular shaped drop with pierced grape and vine leaf surmount suspended from a disc shaped panel set with two cabochon sapphires and a single half-pearl within ropework borders with twin green enamel shoulder motifs to a cabochon ruby suspension loop and pin, probably by John Paul Cooper, circa 1910
Sold for GBP 688 at Christie’s in 2010
Arts and Crafts Gold, Opal, Seed Pearl and Diamond Grapevine Brooch, F.W. Lawrence One oval opal ap. .70 ct., 2 oval old-mine cut diamonds ap. .25 ct., signed F.W. Lawrence, c. 1900, ap. 6.5 dwts.
Sold for $1,500 (includes buyer’s premium) at Doyle New York in 2019
14K Arts & Crafts DIAMOND Brooch/Pendant
14K yellow gold brooch/pendant contains 3 old European round cut diamonds. WEIGHT: 1.25 Ct. Approx. Rated SI1-SI2 in clarity and H-I in color. One small diamond is chipped. Weight: 6.9 grams.
Sold for $500 at Blackwell Auctions in 2019
Brooch ca. 1905 George Bell American This lovely brooch features a large faceted citrine surrounded by floral sprays, twisting grape vines of chased gold, and grape clusters of seed pearls. The piece is stamped “14KT” and has an applied plaque marked “BELL,” representing the Denver gem dealer George Bell. The design of the brooch, however, has been attributed to Gustav Manz. Born in Germany in 1865, Gustav Manz studied the art and design of jewelry in Paris, England, and South Africa before immigrating to the United States in 1893. Because Manz made his living as a manufacturing jeweler, the majority of his pieces are marked by retailers, including such prominent firms as Tiffany & Co., Marcus & Co., and Black, Starr & Frost, rather than with Manz’s own name. However, owing to the survival of some of Manz’s journals and business records containing over two thousand of his jewelry designs, it is possible to attribute many unsigned pieces to his shop. This brooch is a wonderful example of Manz’s interpretation of the Arts & Crafts style and a testament to his unique aesthetic, creative use of gemstones, and impressive carving skills.
Reference: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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