Ruching or Rouching is a gathering technique used in needlework. It is often used on items of clothing and has been used for centuries. The technique involves a large number of increases being introduced in one row, which are then removed by decreases a few rows later. This produces many small vertical ripples or “ruches” in the fabric, effectively little pleats. Reference: Wikipedia
A woman’s sack and petticoat of white silk satin. The sack is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves. The bodice meets at centre front, with boning on each side. The bodice and sleeves are lined with bleached linen. There is an opening at the centre back lining, boned on each side with lacing holes for adjusting the bodice. There are two, double, box pleats at the back, stitched at the neckline. The sack is made of 7 widths of silk, with a waist seam from the front edges to the side-back seam. The skirts are shaped for a wide hoop. The hem is faced with a deep band of white silk taffeta. The skirt fronts are decorated with a wide ruching of satin, edged with white silk chenille fringe, gathered into puffs and arranged in at zig zag pattern, and passementerie tassels of white silk chenille. Narrower ruchings of silk and chenille are placed either side of it. The same narrow ruching adorns the neck. The petticoat is made of 6 widths of silk and the hem faced with a band of linen. It is adorned with two bands of deep ruching and two of narrow ruching, with passementerie tassels. The ensemble was altered in the late 19th century for fancy dress. Hooks and eyes were added to the bodice fronts, as well as hooks on the skirt and tapes at the inside waist, to loop up the skirts. The waist of the petticoat was unpicked and reconfigured.
1775-1780 (sewing) 1870 – 1910 (altered)
Reference: © Victoria and Albert Museum
A Natalie Cole turquoise ensemble worn in concert Comprising a turquoise bustier with diagonal ruching and a built-in bra, with an interior label inscribed, “Lloyd Klein / Paris”; a turqoise and blue wide belt with colored faux jewels and a long sash with a “Lloyd Klein / Paris” label; a short turquoise pleated asymmetrical skirt with the “Lloyd Klein / Paris” label; and 2 two-toned capes, one gray and champagne-colored and the other turquoise and blue. Cole wore this colorful ensemble when she performed in concert in Budapest, Hungary in 2010. Accompanied by a photo of Cole wearing the gown.
Sold for US$ 437 (£ 340) inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2018
A RED RUCHED SILK BUSTIER & BLACK CRUSHED VELVET HAREM PANTS YVES SAINT LAURENT, 1970’s GRADE: 2 Shirt Estimated Size Small Pants Estimated Size Medium includes Christie’s garment bag
Sold for USD 750 at Christie’s in 2018
B. Altman Silk Taffeta Evening Coat French, circa 1916 Fashioned with two layers, the outer layer of free floating panels, picotee ruching at all edges, blush pink chiffon lining, labeled: B. Altman/Paris/New York. Excellent condition, collar needs re-stitching.
Sold for $179 (includes buyer’s premium) at Doyle New York in 2002
DOROTHY O’HARA TAFFETA EVENING GOWN, c. 1945
Sold for $325 at Augusta Auctions in 2019
Black silk crepe evening column w/ checked panier & trained bustle skirt, short sleeve w/ ruching at SH, train loops for dancing, label “Dorothy O’Hara”, B 36″, W 25″, L 62″, (stains scattered throughout plaid skirt, hole near hem, SH pads unsewn) fair- good.
Evening cape ca. 1895 James McCreery & Company American This style of round cape was de rigueur in the mid-1890s. The elaborate large-scale embroidery and delicate silk ruching amidst the alluring changeante velvet displays the rich opulence of the fashions of the period.
Reference: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
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