Glossary - Pastime Fashions https://pastimefashions.com/glossary/ Information and Price Guide to Antique and Vintage Fashion Items Sun, 06 Aug 2023 08:36:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.3 Taffeta https://pastimefashions.com/taffeta/ Sun, 06 Aug 2023 08:36:48 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=704 Taffeta is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk, cuprammonium rayons, acetate, or polyester. Reference: Wikipedia. It has been used for centuries in dress making. It was a…

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Taffeta is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk, cuprammonium rayons, acetate, or polyester. Reference: Wikipedia. It has been used for centuries in dress making. It was a popular choice for purses and fastenings and since the 1950’s it has often been used to make ball gowns as it holds its shape well.

Below are some examples and price guides of vintage and antique taffeta items including a civil war bustle dress and a blush silk taffeta skirt.

Blush Silk Taffeta Skirt with a Long Train

Blush Silk Taffeta Skirt with a Long Train
The skirt with a bow clasp at the waist; open down the center; tiered; long pooling train; unlabeled, approximately size 2.

Sold for US$89.60 inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2023


A WHITE EMBROIDERED PURPLE SILK TAFFETA HALTER TOP EVENING DRESS

A WHITE EMBROIDERED PURPLE SILK TAFFETA HALTER TOP EVENING DRESS WITH RHINESTONE DETAILING
CIRCA 1990

Worn for various photographs to promote the album Mistaken Identity

Sold for USD 2,142 at Christie’s in 2023


COUTURE JEAN PATOU COCKTAIL DRESS, FRANCE, 1950s

COUTURE JEAN PATOU COCKTAIL DRESS, FRANCE, 1950s

Black silk taffeta cocktail dress w/ draped, shaped & pleated bodice, silk embroidered interlaced corded bands w/ cutouts, full gathered & pleated skirt, horsehair underskirt & cream silk crepe bodice lining, label “Jean Patou” & w/ illegible couture tape, B 38”, W 28”, L 44”, (light 0.75” stain front right W, draping disheveled at right SH & left W, 2” seam opening right armscye, 1.5” left & 1” right underarm, 12” thread pull CB seat, section of loose stitching up to 3” at hem) very good.

Sold for US$700 at Augusta Auctions in 2023


Silk Embroidered and Linen Bodice 18th Century.

Silk Embroidered and Linen Bodice 18th Century. Fine brocaded coral fabric, embroidered with flowers and ribbons, with coral colored silk satin taffeta to tabs at hems. Two eyelet plackets to the interior of the garment, and the interior lined in the coral taffeta and linen. To the sleeve hems, residual silk tape lace. Probably French. Circa 1760. {Approximate dimensions: 34″ Bust (ie the front sides meet, as per the embroidered design matches there), 30″ Waist. 21″ Maximum length from shoulder to tab. Condition: Very good condition overall. Light foxing to lining. Mesh restoration to laces at sleeves. Wear to tape lining at nape of neck to back.

Sold for US$350 at Michaan’s Auctions in 2023


1860s Civil War Era Taffeta & Velvet Bustle Dress

1860s Civil War Era Taffeta & Velvet Bustle Dress

Beautiful deep burgundy sill velvet trim on bodice accented with a lovely circling back hem & train. Heavily pleated waist. Off white ruffle completely around the hem & train. (16) small metal buttons along the front with an additional (16) decorative metal buttons presented in a criss cross pattern along its backside. One long split in taffeta where the rear bow would lay. Once sewn it would not be seen and would be covered by bow tails. This was found in the same box as another Civil-War era gown that has a Paris label. We believe the original owner had her clothing made in Paris. This one is missing the label. Exquisite dress making skills went into creating this lovely outfit.

Sold for US$325 at Donley Auctions in 2023

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Velvet https://pastimefashions.com/velvet/ Wed, 26 Apr 2023 08:13:16 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=686 Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short, dense pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. Reference: Wikipedia. It…

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Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short, dense pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. Reference: Wikipedia. It can be synthetic or natural such as cotton or silk. Old silk velvet which dates to pre WWII often has a finer feel to it than modern fabric.

Below are some examples and price guides of velvet items including a Christian Dior jacket and a velvet and tulle flower gown from the 1950’s.

Christian Dior: a Blue Velvet Dress Coat
Autumn/Winter 2001

Christian Dior: a Blue Velvet Dress Coat
Autumn/Winter 2001

Condition Grade B+

Sold for €701.25 inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2023


A DARK PLUM SILK VELVET COLLARLESS GOLD AND PURPLE BUTTON CUFF PATCH POCKET CLUTCH JACKET

A DARK PLUM SILK VELVET COLLARLESS GOLD AND PURPLE BUTTON CUFF PATCH POCKET CLUTCH JACKET
CHANEL, LATE 20TH/EARLY 21ST CENTURY

With padded shoulders and gold mesh and silver sequin braid trim

Sold for USD 6,300 at Christie’s in 2023


Four Chanel Silk, Velvet and Fabric Flower Pins
All signed Chanel, Made in France.

Sold for $157 (includes buyer’s premium) at Doyle in 2023


Scotch & Soda Satin Trimmed Velvet Tuxedo Blazer Tuxedo

Scotch & Soda Satin Trimmed Velvet Tuxedo Blazer Tuxedo Sakko Jacket 46
Style: Jacket
Vintage: No
Size Type: Normal Size
Features: with a removable pen lateral Slits back embellished is.
Theme: 80s 90s
Type: Blazer
Size: 46

Sold for US$280 at Bidhaus in 2023


Vintage 1950's Will Steinman Tulle and Velvet Flower Gown

Vintage 1950’s Will Steinman Tulle and Velvet Flower Gown

approx. 34 bust, 24 waist, good condition

Sold for US$150 at Denise Ryan Auctions in 2023

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Diamonds https://pastimefashions.com/diamonds/ Mon, 06 Mar 2023 09:27:19 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=675 Diamonds are one of the most desirable gemstones and can be valued both on their rarity and quality. They are hard gemstones which have not only been used in jewelry,…

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Diamonds are one of the most desirable gemstones and can be valued both on their rarity and quality. They are hard gemstones which have not only been used in jewelry, but also precision tooling.

Below are some examples and price guides of vintage and antique diamond jewelry, including a Georges Fouquet Art Nouveau diamond wing brooch and a 1920’s love bird brooch.

TWO ART DECO WHITE GOLD AND DIAMOND RINGS

TWO ART DECO WHITE GOLD AND DIAMOND RINGS
Each set with old mine and single-cut diamonds, approximate total diamond weight 1.00 carats, weight 4.0 dwt, size 7 1/2, 8 3/4

Sold for US$1,402.50 inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2023


GEORGES FOUQUET ART NOUVEAU BAROQUE PEARL, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL 'WINGS' BROOCH

GEORGES FOUQUET ART NOUVEAU BAROQUE PEARL, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL ‘WINGS’ BROOCH
Baroque pearl, old and rose-cut diamonds, green plique-à-jour enamel, silver-topped gold, circa 1907 – 1908, unsigned, accompanied by a brooch fitting of later addition with maker’s mark (Péry & Fils)

Françoise Cailles, 2011: Certificate of Authenticity

Size/Dimensions: 12.5 x 8.5 cm (4 7/8 x 3 1/4 in), wings adjustable
Gross Weight: 34.8 grams

Sold for USD 151,200 at Christie’s in 2022


Antique Rose Gold, Silver, Pearl and Diamond Bangle Bracelet

Antique Rose Gold, Silver, Pearl and Diamond Bangle Bracelet
One button pearl ap. 7.0 mm., 18 old-mine cut diamonds ap. 3.60 cts., ap. 11.6 dwts. Inner cir. 6 3/4 inches.

Sold for $2,520 (includes buyer’s premium) at Doyle in 2023


VINTAGE PLATINUM & DIAMOND BRACELET

VINTAGE PLATINUM & DIAMOND BRACELET

Sold for US$8,000 at Leighton Galleries in 2023


Magnificent solid platinum genuine diamonds,emeralds, rubies, sapphires lovebird pin

Magnificent solid platinum genuine diamonds,emeralds, rubies, sapphires in this gorgeous circle pin with two lovebirds is an exceptional high end piece from the 1920s 3ctw all genuine, original, matching old miners

Sold for US$4,600 at Jasper52 in 2023

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Knitwear https://pastimefashions.com/knitwear/ Mon, 05 Dec 2022 09:32:28 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=664 Knitwear. Knitting is an ancient craft and the some of the earliest examples date back to the Ancient Egyptian times where knitted socks have been found. Knitted items can consist…

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Knitwear. Knitting is an ancient craft and the some of the earliest examples date back to the Ancient Egyptian times where knitted socks have been found. Knitted items can consist of different fibers such as wool, rayon and more recently acrylic fibers but they can also consist of wire such as silver wire.

Knitting remained a popular hobby until the 1980’s when there was a decline. However, thankfully knitting has made a resurgence in popularity.

Below are some examples and price guides of knitwear including a vintage swimsuit ensemble and a silver wire knitted belt.

A PAIR OF RUTH BADER GINSBURG BLACK LACE GLOVES

A PAIR OF RUTH BADER GINSBURG BLACK LACE GLOVES.
Black cotton fishnet gloves with knitted floral pattern to back of hand, scalloped wrists, 185 x 97 mm.

Sold for US$16,575 inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2022


Vintage Knitted 3 Piece Swimsuit Ensemble

Vintage Knitted 3 Piece Swimsuit Ensemble

Coordinating Lavender knits, one is a vest, 32″ L x 36″ W flat x 34″ H flat bikini bottoms 10″ L x 20″ W flat x 28″ H flat bikini top is adjustable, shoulder straps are 17″ L x side straps are 19″ L the knit portion of the bikini top is 15″ across and 8″ down the middle

Sold for US$75 at Annie Hodges Auctions in 2021


Vintage Silver/Lapis Gem Stones Belt

Vintage Silver/Lapis Gem Stones Belt.

Designed vintage knitted silver belt, the link highlight with one oval shape lapis, surrounded by lapis, turquoise, and coral like stone, the link carved with delicate motifs. Approximately 41.5*1.9inch

Sold for US$300 at Wealthier Art & Auction in 2021


Vintage Lurex wool knitted big shawl/toga with long fringes

Vintage Lurex wool knitted big shawl/toga with long fringes

Sold for US$65 at Jasper52 in 2021


Vintage 1940s Handmade Purple Knitted Shirt & Skirt Set

Vintage 1940s Handmade Purple Knitted Shirt & Skirt Set. A shirt and skirt set in a lovely deep purple color from the 1930s or 40s. Hand made with a decorative knit pattern down the center and arms. Comes with a matching belt. Medium to large size, shirt measures 21 inches across. Skirt measures 35 inches in the waist and 27.5 inches in length.

Sold for US$20 at PUBLIC SALE AUCTION HOUSE in 2022

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Suede https://pastimefashions.com/suede/ Mon, 18 Nov 2019 08:59:47 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=286 Suede leather is made from the underside of the skin, primarily from lamb, although goat, calf and deer are commonly used. Splits from thick hides of cow and deer are…

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Suede leather is made from the underside of the skin, primarily from lamb, although goat, calf and deer are commonly used. Splits from thick hides of cow and deer are also sueded, but, due to the fiber content, have a shaggy nap. Because suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer, suede is less durable but softer than standard (“full-grain”) leather. Its softness, thinness, and pliability make it suitable for clothing and delicate uses; suede was originally used for women’s gloves, hence its etymology (see above). Suede leather is also popular in upholstery, shoes, bags, and other accessories, and as a lining for other leather products. Due to its textured nature and open pores, suede may become dirty and quickly absorb liquids. Reference: Wikipedia

 

Akira suede and leather dress Pair of light purple suede shoes KIMO, CIRCA 1970 An orange suede jacket with collar and cuffs Pair of men's shoes of polished tan brown leather and white suede A gentleman's leather motorist's coat by H.A. Lederkleding A RUST QUILTED SUEDE LUNCHBOX BAG WITH LUCITE TORTOISE HARDWARE CHANEL, 1997

 

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Lace https://pastimefashions.com/lace/ Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:00:36 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=260 Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an openwork pattern, made by machine or by hand. Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used but…

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Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an openwork pattern, made by machine or by hand. Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used but is often made with cotton thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace may be made of synthetic fiber. A few modern artists make it with a fine copper or silver wire instead of thread.

It’s origin is disputed by historians. An Italian claim is a will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family. A Flemish claim is lace on the alb of a worshiping priest in a painting about 1485 by Hans Memling. But since it evolved from other techniques, it is impossible to say that it originated in any one place.

The late 16th century marked the rapid development of lace, both needle lace and bobbin lace became dominant in both fashion as well as home décor. For enhancing the beauty of collars and cuffs, needle lace was embroidered with loops and picots.

Lace was used by clergy of the early Catholic Church as part of vestments in religious ceremonies but did not come into widespread use until the 16th century in the northwestern part of the European continent. The popularity of lace increased rapidly and the cottage industry of lace making spread throughout Europe. In 1840, Britain’s Queen Victoria was married in lace, influencing the wedding dress style until now. In North America in the 19th century, missionaries spread the knowledge of lace making to the Native American tribes. St. John Francis Regis guided many women out of prostitution by establishing them in the lace making and embroidery trade, which is why he became the Patron Saint of lace making.

The English diarist Samuel Pepys often wrote about the lace used for his, his wife’s, and his acquaintances’ clothing, and on 10 May 1669, noted that he intended to remove the gold lace from the sleeves of his coat “as it is fit [he] should”, possibly in order to avoid charges of ostentatious living.

Catherine of Aragon while exiled in Ampthill, England, was said to have supported the lace makers there by burning all her lace, and commissioning new pieces. This may be the origin of the lacemaker’s holiday – Cattern’s day. On this day (25 or 26 November) lacemakers were given a day off from work, and Cattern cakes – small dough cakes made with caraway seeds, were used to celebrate. Reference: Wikipedia

 

Alice Maynard Lace Dress Victorian Era Flower Lace Shawl Lace fourth quarter 17th century French Brussel lace border, needle lace technique, probably cotton, Brussels, Belgium, 1850-1900 Lace border European early 20th century A short black lace sheath dress with pearl embroidery

 

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Ruching https://pastimefashions.com/ruching/ Thu, 14 Nov 2019 15:30:19 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=226 Ruching or Rouching is a gathering technique used in needlework. It is often used on items of clothing and has been used for centuries. The technique involves a large number…

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Ruching or Rouching is a gathering technique used in needlework. It is often used on items of clothing and has been used for centuries. The technique involves a large number of increases being introduced in one row, which are then removed by decreases a few rows later. This produces many small vertical ripples or “ruches” in the fabric, effectively little pleats. Reference: Wikipedia

 

A woman's sack and petticoat of white silk satin A Natalie Cole turquoise ensemble worn in concert A RED RUCHED SILK BUSTIER & BLACK CRUSHED VELVET HAREM PANTS B. Altman Silk Taffeta Evening Coat French, circa 1916 DOROTHY O'HARA TAFFETA EVENING GOWN, c. 1945 Evening cape ca. 1895 James McCreery & Company American

 

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Seed Beads https://pastimefashions.com/seed-beads/ Wed, 13 Nov 2019 17:37:27 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=218 Seed beads or rocailles are uniformly shaped, spheroidal beads ranging in size from under a millimeter to several millimeters. Seed bead is also a generic term for any small bead.…

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Seed beads or rocailles are uniformly shaped, spheroidal beads ranging in size from under a millimeter to several millimeters. Seed bead is also a generic term for any small bead. Usually rounded in shape, seed beads are most commonly used for loom and off-loom bead weaving but they are also found in embroidery. They may be used for simple stringing, or as spacers between other beads in jewelry.

Larger seed beads are used in various fiber crafts for embellishment, or crochet with fiber or soft, flexible wire. The largest size of a seed bead is 1° (“one-aught”, sometimes written 1/0) and the smallest is 24°, about the size of a grain of sand. However, seed beads that are size 5° or 6° are usually called “pony beads” rather than “seed beads”; the next larger class of seed beads, from 3° to 4°, are usually called “trade beads”; the largest class of seed beads, including 1°, 2°, and anything larger, are usually referred to as “crow beads.” Most modern seed bead work is done using seed beads ranging in sizes 6°, 8°, 11°, 12°, 13° and 15°. Sizes 6°, 8° and 11° are often used in beaded knitting, as well as bead knitting. The extremely small class of seed beads smaller than 15° have not been in production since the 1890s and any in existence are usually considered antiques. Reference: Wikipedia

Very tiny seed beads are sometimes referred to as micro beads and should not be confused with the modern plastic micro beads found in cosmetics and other household products.

 

A PAIR OF CHEROKEE BEADED HIDE MOCCASINS Striped Sequin Evening Gown Probably Worth, French, 1930s MAE WEST VINTAGE BEADED HANDBAGS Evening dress, womens, silk / beads / diamantes, maker unknown, France, c 1925 Woman's coat Designed for: Liberty & Co. (English, founded 1875) A SIOUX PICTORIAL BEADED HIDE VEST

 

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Bullion https://pastimefashions.com/bullion/ Tue, 12 Nov 2019 16:19:10 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=210 Bullion or Purl is structurally a very long spring, hollow at the core; it can be stretched apart slightly and couched between the wraps of wire, or cut into short…

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Bullion or Purl is structurally a very long spring, hollow at the core; it can be stretched apart slightly and couched between the wraps of wire, or cut into short lengths and applied like beads. This thread comes in both shiny and matte versions and is used in goldwork. Reference: Wikipedia

 

Dress 1860–65 American Hat (naval bicorn) and case, metal / felt / plush / fabric, Australia, [1860-1900] Red silk muff trimmed with narrow gold ribbon and gold A German General Officer of Hussars Jacket, worn by Ernest Augustus, King of Hanover circa 1850 Red and blue silk velvet tabard, applied with cloth of gold and linen, embroidered with silver and silver-gilt thread, twist, bullion and purl in laid and couched work. A Black Watch Officer's Levee dress sporran

 

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Appliqué https://pastimefashions.com/applique/ Tue, 12 Nov 2019 15:44:37 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=202 Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is…

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Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised with textiles, but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration. Reference: Wikipedia

SATIN NIGHT JACKET DUCHESS EMERALD APPLIQUÉ FLOWERS Skirt and Top Ensemble A Natalie Cole strapless gown An embroidered dress probably by Madeleine Vionnet Geoffrey Beene Quilted Applique Ensemble American, Fall 1983 Jeran Designs Creme Matte Jersey Evening Gown



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Jersey Fabric https://pastimefashions.com/jersey-fabric/ Mon, 11 Nov 2019 16:47:48 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=187 Jersey Fabric. Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is now made of wool, cotton, and synthetic fibers. Since medieval…

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Jersey Fabric. Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is now made of wool, cotton, and synthetic fibers. Since medieval times, Jersey, Channel Islands, where the material was first produced, had been an important exporter of knitted goods and the fabric in wool from Jersey became well known. The fabric can be a very stretchy single knitting, usually light-weight, jersey with one flat side and one piled side. When made with a lightweight yarn, this is the fabric most often used to make T-shirts. Or it can be a double knitted jersey (interlock jersey), with less stretch, that creates a heavier fabric of two single jerseys knitted together to leave the two flat sides on the outsides of the fabric, with the piles in the middle. Interlock jersey is sometimes used as a more formal alternative knit to the traditional piqué knit for polo shirts, and is generally the preferred knit for those made from pima cotton. Jersey is considered to be an excellent fabric for draped garments, such as dresses, and women’s tops. Reference: Wikipedia

 

A CHRISTIAN DIOR PINK, BLUE AND GREEN GEOMETRIC PRINT JERSEY JUMPSUIT Rudi Gernreich Op Art Cocktail Dress GIANNI VERSACE COUTURE DRESS 1994 Dress fabric of printed synthetic jersey

 

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Rayon https://pastimefashions.com/rayon/ Fri, 08 Nov 2019 08:47:34 +0000 https://pastimefashions.com/?p=122 Rayon is a manufactured fiber made from natural sources such as wood and agricultural products that are regenerated as cellulose fiber. The many types and grades of rayon can imitate…

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Rayon is a manufactured fiber made from natural sources such as wood and agricultural products that are regenerated as cellulose fiber. The many types and grades of rayon can imitate the feel and texture of natural fibers such as silk, wool, cotton, and linen. The types that resemble silk are often called artificial silk.

Rayon is manufactured from natural cellulose, and hence is not considered to be synthetic. Technically, the term synthetic fiber is reserved for fully synthetic fibers. In manufacturing terms, rayon is classified as “a fiber formed by regenerating natural materials into a usable form”. Specific types of rayon include viscose, modal and lyocell, each of which differs in the manufacturing process and the properties of the finished product. Reference: Wikipedia

 

Two rayon jumpsuits TWO DRESSES AND THREE COATS JEAN MUIR, 1980/1990s Ozbeck Black and Burgundy Ensemble English, mid 1980s MARILYN MONROE-LABELED BATHING SUIT Evening dress spring/summer 1938 Madeleine Vionnet French Womens Berlei pull on girdle. Made by Berlei Limited in Australia, Oceania, c.1950.

 

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