Stockings. It was during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I that the first stocking machine was invented by vicar William Lee in Nottingham, England in the late 16th century. He was refused a patent as the Queen was disappointed with the coarse results. Up until the mid 1600s, the majority of stockings were hand-knitted but between 1650 and 1750, the stocking frame was gaining a competitive edge.
The early machines were unwieldy, costly to operate, and low yielding but by the 1760s, improvements to the original design resulted in the manufacture of machine-made lace and a finer fabric. The new technology required great mechanical skill and could produce superior silk stockings.
By the mid 1800s, technical developments saw increased output at a cheaper price making them more affordable for a mass market. By the 1880s, a fully automatic circular machine manufactured the stocking as a complete tube with the heel and toe closed. Reference: Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences
Stockings, originally designed for practical purposes, soon transformed into a fashionable accessory with the invention of the knitting frame in 1589 and then the circular-knitting machine in 1816. This technology allowed for a tighter weave and a better fit. Also, it was much easier for them to be produced, making them more affordable and readily available to a larger public. Plain white ones were in mode for quite some time, until the mid to late-1800s when hemlines rose, and the ankle was revealed. This change in fashion called for colorful and fanciful motifs to decorate the lower leg, a visually appealing effect. Reference: The Metropolitan Museum
Pair of cream colored knitted stockings with spray of flowers embroidered with polychrome silks on instep; stained.
American 19th century Object Place: America
Reference: Milwaukee Public Museum
Victoria, Queen A PAIR OF SILK STOCKINGS THOUGHT TO HAVE BELONGED TO QUEEN VICTORIA, each monogrammed with a crown above the initials “VR”, band at top edge of each stocking additionally monogrammed “M”, decorative seams running down lower leg to foot in matching silk thread with two embroidered diamond shape motifs above each ankle, preserved in a brown card box, numerous paper labels on lid, one inscribed “Victorias Silk Stockings”, both stockings darned at the toe in cream thread, both with ladder in the foot and the back of the leg, some light soiling, box very worn
Sold for 875 GBP at Sotheby’s in 2017
Before the introduction of knitting to England in the 15th century, all hose were made from woven fabrics, either linen or wool. By the beginning of the 17th century knitted stockings were the most popular form of hose, but the cut versions like this example continued to be worn. Designs & Designing The stocking has been cut to follow the shape of the leg as closely as possible to prevent sagging. Cut hose were often worn under knitted silk hose, but the embroidered edgings in green silk meant that this one could also be worn on its own. 1590 – 1615 (made)
Stockings made from wool or linen, cut on the bias (diagonally to the weave) to allow stretch were known as ‘cut hose’. Lacing at the ankle gave a tight fit. Plain hose like this could be worn under a more expensive silk stocking to create a smooth line over hairy legs.
Reference: © Victoria and Albert Museum
MAE WEST THIGH-HIGH STOCKINGS
A collection of six pairs of seamless nude nylon thigh- high stockings. Together with a pair of nude nylon thigh- high stockings with a black seam and black detailing to the feet.
Sold for $300 at Julien’s Auctions in 2019
Stockings 1880–99 American
The colorful, striped patterning of this pair of stockings gives them a modern sensibility. Overall, they have a sporty feel, yet their sheerness adds a touch of elegance. It is very likely, that these would have been worn during the afternoon, appropriate for one of the sports of the day such as tennis or bicycling.
Reference: The Metropolitan Museum
This is a pair of silk stockings made in Paris, France, between 1878 and 1880. During the 1800s finely knitted French stockings with embroidery and hand-stitched seams were prized. Stockings that were knitted to shape were known as fully fashioned, in contrast to cheaper work where flat jersey was cut to shape and seamed. Distinguishing marks are finely knotted into the top welt of the stockings.
Reference: Museum of Applied Art and Sciences
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